Dusk · The provinces
Battambang, at Its Own Pace
The light turns, and the provinces begin to glow.
- Battambang
- 3 days
- Local life
The sun goes down slowly over the Gulf of Thailand.

The experience
Koh Russey. Koh Krabey. Koh Rong Samloem. Islands still blissfully under the radar, with private-island villas, jungle waterfalls, turquoise boat days and sand that squeaks underfoot. The perfect final chapter to any Cambodian journey, four days of it.
In pictures
Photos: 1 Wikirictor, CC BY-SA 4.0 · 2 Anthony Spratt, CC BY 2.0 · 3 Avec un sac sur le dos, CC BY 2.0 · 4 Wikirictor, CC BY-SA 3.0 · 5 Wikirictor, CC BY-SA 3.0 · 6 Wikirictor, CC BY-SA 3.0 · 7 Treehill, CC BY-SA 4.0
The story
Most journeys through Cambodia end at Angkor. Keep going south to the Gulf of Thailand and you reach islands that are still blissfully under the radar. Koh Russey, whose name means Bamboo Island, was for years little more than a small navy outpost. Koh Krabey takes its name from the Khmer word for water buffalo. Both lie off the coast near Ream National Park, protected since 1993 for its mangroves, seagrass and coral reefs.
Further out, about 25 km from the mainland, Koh Rong Samloem curves around Saracen Bay, a three-kilometre crescent of white sand on its sheltered east coast. Sunset Beach and Lazy Beach face the other way. In 2018 the waters around Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem became Koh Rong Marine National Park, Cambodia’s first: 524 square kilometres of coral, seagrass and mangroves, where seahorses, sea turtles and dugongs live.
The squeak is real. Travellers have reported it on Saracen Bay and on Koh Rong’s beaches for years, and physicists put it down to clean, dry, rounded grains of a similar size rubbing against one another. Wet sand stays silent, so walk the dry stretch above the tideline and listen.
Itinerary
Day 1
Drive down to the coast, about two hours from Phnom Penh on the expressway, or fly into Sihanouk International Airport on the edge of Ream National Park. A short boat ride takes you to your villa on a private island, in time for your first sunset over the Gulf of Thailand.
Day 2
A turquoise boat day out to Koh Rong Samloem, inside Cambodia’s first marine national park. Swim off the white crescent of Saracen Bay, snorkel over small reefs where seahorses and nudibranchs live, and stop wherever the water looks best.
Day 2, after dark
On dark, moonless nights, plankton in the water around Koh Rong Samloem light up at every movement. We plan an evening around it when the moon allows.
Day 3
Into the island jungle to a seasonal waterfall, then down to a beach where the sand squeaks underfoot.
Day 4
One more swim and a long breakfast, or a boat through the mangrove channels of Ream National Park on your way back to the mainland.
A sample plan. We shape every stay around you.
Plan your trip
Before you go
November to April, when the seas are calmest. The dry season runs from about November or December to March. From May to October the sea is rougher and July to September is wettest, though Saracen Bay, on Koh Rong Samloem’s east side, is more sheltered from the monsoon.
It shows best on dark, moonless nights away from lights, so it depends partly on the moon. If your dates allow, we plan an evening around it.
No. They are seasonal and run fullest in and after the rains. Late in the dry season they can be little more than a trickle.
Perhaps. The reefs shelter seahorses and nudibranchs, hornbills and ospreys fly over Koh Rong Samloem, and dolphins and dugongs have been recorded off Ream. Wildlife keeps its own schedule, so we never promise a sighting.
From Phnom Penh, the expressway reaches the coast in about two hours. Sihanouk International Airport has flights from Siem Reap and around the region, but routes change often, so we check them for your dates.
Yes. This is a sample plan, and we shape every stay around you.
Arranged around you
Every One Journey experience in Cambodia is private. Tell us your dates and who is travelling, and we will arrange it around you.
or write to [email protected]
Or make it part of the whole journey: A Tale of Two Cities with Raffles
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